Analysis of Peruvian Archaeological Textile Structures

This workshop required an application process and only those accepted to the workshop should register!

February 11-13, 2025
The Fowler Museum at UCLA, Los Angeles, CA
Instructors: Elena Phipps and Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez

Peruvian textiles are composed of diverse and complex structures—ranging from simple and complex braiding systems, looping and cross-looping, linking and sprang, plainweaves, supplementary weft and warp weaves, double-,triple-, quadruple- and quintuple-cloth, among others. In addition, traditions follow warp and or weft emphasis in the weave structures, all of which represent particular cultural practices. The workshop will focus on examining close-up a selection of Precolumbian textiles in the Fowler Museum, UCLA to understand their technical features. This will include identification of yarns spin directions and composition (though not fiber identification at this time), selvage types (warp or weft) and structural features including non-woven and woven constructions, both simple and complex.

Understanding the construction of Peruvian textiles enables conservators, curators and others who work with archaeological collections, to document the physical textiles. The information gleaned from this practice can contribute to decisions regarding conservation treatment and preservation initiatives, exhibition potential and systems of support, as well as contributing to studies of cultural context and association. Most Peruvian textiles in museum collections do not have provenance and documenting their physical features, normally the work of textile conservators, can help to provide invaluable information about the object.

The workshop will incorporate hands-on examination with low level magnification (ie 5-10x) as well as some higher levels (ca. 100-150x) of a selection of textiles from the Fowler Museum. To enhance the learning process, students will, in addition, practice making some of the structures, including 4-8 strand braiding, warp-faced plainweaves and doublecloth, among others. Nilda Callañaupa—master weaver from Chinchero, Peru will lead the weaving practice and provide her contemporary perspective to the textile traditions of the region.

Interested individuals must apply to participate. The registration fee for the workshop is $495 for AIC members and $594 for non-members. Financial support is available for a few workshop participants. Support can be requested in the workshop application.

Funding for this program comes from a grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities. Additional support comes from the Foundation for Advancement in Conservation (FAIC) Endowment for Professional Development, which was also created by a grant from the Mellon Foundation and is supported by donations from members of the American Institute for Conservation (AIC) and its friends. Workshops are made possible with the assistance of many AIC members, but no AIC membership dues were used to create or present this course.

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Interested individuals must complete an application by November 26, 2024. Applications are submitted through our online application portal. When you enter the portal, you will be prompted to login to the system using a login ID and password. Please note that this system is not connected to your F/AIC profile on our general website. Notifications will be made by December 20, 2024.

Funding to support registration plus $1,000 travel stipend is available for three workshop participants. Applicants can indicate their need for funding in their workshop application. The request for funding will not be visible to the reviewers or effect the participant selection.

Criteria for review:

• Need for the content; priority will go to individuals currently working with Peruvian textiles.
• Plan for dissemination of information gained.
• The program seeks to support a diverse set of participants and will consider geographic location, place of employment, profession, and career level.